Published in Deccan Herald on 11th July 2024
For years, Udupi has been the base for our trips to the temples of South Canara. Uncluttered and peaceful, this little town has always wrapped us in a comforting blanket of hot food and a soft bed after jostling temple crowds. Recently, we decided to take a longer time for the temple circuit and discovered that Udupi has all the ingredients of a pleasant getaway as well.
The eight and a half hour drive from Bangalore to Udupi used to be a stressful chore, with endless hours of agonising whether to go via Shiradi Ghat and risk LPG cylinders sliding off the lorries on to our bonnet or take the Charmadi Ghat and pray that we don’t have a puncture on the craters. We choose Charmadi, but this time, we fortify ourselves with an overnight halt at Chikmagalur, but surprisingly, the ghat road is very good. Charmadi Ghat is a delight, in any season and more so now in monsoon with the clouds on the ground and greenery freshly bathed. Waterfalls tumble off dark mountains, weave through carpets of green and stop just short of the road, their sound building up the anticipation in every motorist much before they are sighted. Much has been said and written about the Monsoon magic of the Malnad Ghats and all of it fails to do justice. It can be scary with landslides and accidents but with some intelligent planning, this drive should be on every bucket list. We leave Charmadi reluctantly after any number of stops to soak in the beauty, pass through small hamlets with onomatopoeic wonders for names like Kajarapalke and Bajagoli and enter Udupi at its beautiful signature Arch.
Udupi, today, is known solely for the Krishna temple which was established by Madhvacharya in the 13th century. The deity, a small idol of Little Krishna is viewed through a small window and leaves one wanting more. The queue is lighter early in the morning or at four in the evening, so timing the visit then, enables a quick second glimpse. Udupi has, however, existed from much earlier, as evidenced by the Chandramouleeswar (Shiva) Temple. Located right opposite the Krishna Temple, most non-locals miss this temple due to its small and nondescript entrance. Legend has it that Chandra, the Moon God was cursed by Daksha, his father-in-law, due to which he lost his lustre and power. Chandra is then said to have prayed to Shiva for releasing him of the curse at this Chandramouleeswara temple. Shiva restored the lustre and shine of the Moon God and this place came to be named after Chandra who is the leader(Pa) of the Stars (Udu). Perpendicular to the Krishna temple lies the Ananteswara temple, also devoted to lord Shiva and believed to be one of the oldest temples of the Tulu region. This triumvirate forms the daily circuit of many a local.
For a bit of adventure, there is the drive from Udupi to Sringeri through the Agumbe Ghats. The fourteen hair pin bends on this Ghat evoke both fear and joy together. A gasp of relief in clearing one hairpin bend, a shriek at the on-coming bus that seems to cover the entire road pushing you to the outer periphery of the sheer drop and the peace from the ageless green hills around - one cannot but help feeling close to the Divine, the Force or the Elements - whatever one chooses to call it. Agumbe is also a designated UNESCO Heritage Site with some bespoke trekking trails.
From scenic drives through lofty mountains to expansive beaches, spiritual interludes and gastronomic capers, Udupi and its environs, right here in the backyard, has it all.
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